BALSAMIC VINEGAR: The real stuff

In our trifecta of food production tour, the third stop was a family owned balsamic vinegar "winery". We got to see how balsamic vinegar is produced and that was a much more enjoyable experience to see and smell than the hanging hams of Parma. We visited a place that has been producing vinegar by he same family for many generations called Boni.

To begin the process of making balsamic vinegar, the first step is to press white Trebbiano di Castelvetro grapes. The resulting liquid (called the “must”) gets boiled down until it’s just one-half or one-third of the original volume. Then, they pour that liquid into barrels rinsed with boiling vinegar and leave it to age for a year.

At the end of the year, the now-syrupy liquid moves to wooden kegs. After another year, when the aging has further reduced and thickened the vinegar, they transfer it into even smaller wooden barrels. Note in the photo below the size of the barrels from right to left are smaller and smaller. Every single year, they repeat this process. The wood used—chestnut, ash, or juniper—gives Italian balsamic vinegar its unique taste and character, especially as it transforms into prized aged balsamic.

 Meanwhile, an acetaio keeps checking the liquid. When she or he decides it’s ready, the product goes to the organization responsible for regulating balsamic vinegar quality. The shortest amount of time that balsamic vinegar can age is 12 years; the most, 35.

The result? You get a highly-concentrated vinegar that’s very fragrant, sweet, and delicious. That unique flavor, along with the long process and expertise required, means that balsamic vinegar is a delicacy in its own right.

Most balsamic vinegar you’ll find in your grocery store back home, though, doesn’t go through that process. Instead, as balsamic vinegar has become more and more popular beyond Italy, producers have found ways to cut corners. Some make a mixture of wine vinegar and concentrate, and age the mixture for just three or four years. Those who want to make it in truly mass amounts, and cheaply, just mix vinegar with acetic acid, grape concentrate, sugar, and artificial wood flavoring.

Needless to say, these vinegars aren’t traditional… or nearly as good!

Modena is the “only” place for real, traditional balsamic vinegar. The balsamic vinegar from Modena that uses white Trebbiano di Castelvetro grapes and goes through the whole process is, therefore, the best, and most expensive, balsamic vinegar around! Foodies and food purists would also say it’s the “only” balsamic vinegar. Real balsamic vinegar is also protected with DOP status, guaranteeing authenticity and origin in Emilia-Romagna.

If you’ve found yourself lucky enough to have a bottle of aceto balsamico di Modena, don’t use it for just anything. You only need a few drops of it, and it’s particularly good on salads, steak, chunks of Parmesan cheese after a meal, or—our favorite—on vanilla ice cream. For the perfect food pairing, try a few drops on fresh strawberries or aged cheese. The key word here is "drops"; you should not waste it and pour out glugs of it as just a bit goes a long way.

Consider these classic uses for traditional balsamic vinegar:

• Drizzle over Parmigiano Reggiano or aged cheese.

• Add to fresh strawberries for a surprising twist.

• Finish grilled meats or roasted vegetables.

• Drop a bit on vanilla ice cream for a sweet, tangy treat.