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DA VINCI'S LAST SUPPER
We understood that visiting Milan meant we had to see da Vinci's Last Supper. Securing tickets for this requires some timing and patience. Tickets are released approximately 4 weeks before your intended visit date. They can be purchased directly from the Cenacolo Vinciano museum, but getting in the queue is essential. Tickets are released at noon in Italy, which is 3AM in California where we live, so I had to wake up in the middle of the night to make the purchase. You can bu
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BOLOGNA
COMO
DOLOMITES
MILAN
PADUA
VENICE
ST MARKS BASILICA
Visiting St. Mark's Basilica in Venice is an absolute must-see for anyone who finds themselves exploring the enchanting city of Venice. This architectural masterpiece, with its intricate designs and rich history, offers a glimpse into the opulent past of the Venetian Republic. As I stood before its magnificent façade, I was particularly struck by the striking similarities it shares with the grand mosques of Istanbul, many of which were formerly cathedrals during the time of t
VENICE ART SCENE
Although our itinerary was quite packed, we unfortunately did not have the opportunity to revisit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection or the Gallerie dell'Accademia, which we toured the last time we were here in Venice, both of which are renowned for their impressive art collections and rich history. The Peggy Guggenheim Collection is particularly famous for its extensive array of modern art, featuring works by iconic artists such as Picasso, Pollock, and Kandinsky, and is housed
VENICE: FOOD SCENE
Venice being located at the crossroads of East and West, has a culinary tradition that reflects centuries of maritime commerce, noble feasts, humble fishermen’s fare, and a cosmopolitan spirit that has shaped its cuisine into one of Italy’s most fascinating and unique gastronomic identities. Spices, once prized like gold and silver, arrived in Venice’s port—pepper, cinnamon, saffron, cloves—forever transforming the local palate and inspiring dishes that balance sweet, sour, a
PADUA: ACCOMODATIONS
We had just finished hiking in the Dolomites for five days and chose a pitstop in Padua for a couple of nights to see some of the notable sites and more importantly, to do laundry. Instead of staying at a hotel and getting charged outrageous fees to get our stuff cleaned, I decided we should check out an Airbnb instead, with laundry machine!! If you're new to using Airbnbs, check out my travel tips on choosing accommodations in my Bologna Accommodation post. In Padua, I opted
PADUA: HISTORY & ARCHITECTURE
Padua is a delightful ancient city rich in culture, art, and history, making it a nice destination for travelers especially after the hordes of tourists in Venice.. Among the numerous attractions this fascinating city offers, two key highlights stand out, drawing visitors worldwide: the Scrovegni Chapel, famous for its stunning frescoes by the renowned artist Giotto, and the carefully maintained Botanical Gardens, cherished by nature lovers and scholars alike. The first stop,
SCROVENGI CHAPEL
The Scovengi Chapel is a stunning architectural gem located in Padua, Italy. This remarkable structure was completed by the renowned Italian painter Giotto di Bondone in the early 14th century, specifically around 1305. Giotto's work within the chapel is considered a pivotal moment in the history of Western art, marking a significant departure from the Byzantine style that dominated the preceding centuries. The chapel was commissioned by Enrico Scrovegni, a wealthy local merc
DA VINCI'S LAST SUPPER
We understood that visiting Milan meant we had to see da Vinci's Last Supper. Securing tickets for this requires some timing and patience. Tickets are released approximately 4 weeks before your intended visit date. They can be purchased directly from the Cenacolo Vinciano museum, but getting in the queue is essential. Tickets are released at noon in Italy, which is 3AM in California where we live, so I had to wake up in the middle of the night to make the purchase. You can bu
MILAN SFORZA CASTLE
Just outside Milan's historical center lies the Sforza Castle, a magnificent 15th-century structure erected on the remnants of an earlier medieval fortress, commissioned by Francesco Sforza, the city's ruler at the time. Throughout the centuries, the Castle saw various rulers, both local and foreign, such as Emperor Charles V and Napoleon Bonaparte, who governed Milan before the Unification of Italy. Following World War II, the Castle became home to the Modern Art Gallery, wh
MILAN: THE DUOMO
First stop was the Duomo of Milan, which is renowned for being the third largest in Europe, following the illustrious St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City and St. Paul's Cathedral in London. The Duomo of Milan tells a story of faith and art spanning over six centuries. Construction work on the Duomo of Milan probably began in 1386 and ended in 1965. In October 1387 the Veneranda Fabbrica del Duomo was founded at the instigation of Gian Galeazzo Visconti, Lord of Milan, with
DA VINCI'S LAST SUPPER
We understood that visiting Milan meant we had to see da Vinci's Last Supper. Securing tickets for this requires some timing and patience. Tickets are released approximately 4 weeks before your intended visit date. They can be purchased directly from the Cenacolo Vinciano museum, but getting in the queue is essential. Tickets are released at noon in Italy, which is 3AM in California where we live, so I had to wake up in the middle of the night to make the purchase. You can bu
MILAN SFORZA CASTLE
Just outside Milan's historical center lies the Sforza Castle, a magnificent 15th-century structure erected on the remnants of an earlier medieval fortress, commissioned by Francesco Sforza, the city's ruler at the time. Throughout the centuries, the Castle saw various rulers, both local and foreign, such as Emperor Charles V and Napoleon Bonaparte, who governed Milan before the Unification of Italy. Following World War II, the Castle became home to the Modern Art Gallery, wh
MILAN: THE DUOMO
First stop was the Duomo of Milan, which is renowned for being the third largest in Europe, following the illustrious St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City and St. Paul's Cathedral in London. The Duomo of Milan tells a story of faith and art spanning over six centuries. Construction work on the Duomo of Milan probably began in 1386 and ended in 1965. In October 1387 the Veneranda Fabbrica del Duomo was founded at the instigation of Gian Galeazzo Visconti, Lord of Milan, with
COMO ACCOMODATIONS
We stayed in a gorgeous Airbnb for our 3 nights in Como. I think the pictures say it all. Our host, Jennifer from J&Co Homes was very professional. She and her husband manage several properties around Como. I loved this place so much that I thought we wanted out of the States for a bit, this could be our happy place!!!
LAKE COMO DINING EXPERIENCE
Local cuisine features Northern Italian specialties, including fresh lake fish, polenta, risotto, and an array of classic pasta dishes. Dining in Como often comes with breathtaking views of the lake. I like to decide on restaurants using multiple sources to book ahead of our trip. I have found that often the concierge at our hotels will have some great recommendations, but on this trip, we were staying in Airbnb's, so while we did not have the benefit of a concierge, our host
LAKE COMO
Travel in Italy is not without its challenges, or it would not be Italy. The day we were planning to go from Milan to Como, there was a train strike. We hired a car which of course was much more expensive than our train tickets, but it was comfortable and actually worked out well because it was a rainy day and it would have been challenging to drag our suitcases to and from the train station or secure a taxi or taxis given that we were four people with luggage. The regional t
BOLOGNA FOOD SCENE
While strolling around the charming streets of Bologna, you never have to worry about going hungry, as this vibrant city is a culinary paradise filled with an abundance of markets and eateries that cater to every taste and preference. The aroma of freshly prepared dishes wafts through the air, inviting you to explore the numerous tratorrias, osterias, enotecas, restaurants, and pizza shops that dot the landscape. We were traveling in mid September and the smell of fresh truff
BOLOGNA: WALKING TOUR
After leaving the Teatro Anatomico, we found ourselves standing before one of the iconic medieval towers that dot the skyline of this historic city. Bologna, known for its rich cultural heritage and architectural marvels, boasts numerous towers that were built during the Middle Ages, serving various purposes from defense to demonstrating wealth and power. As we gazed up at one of the towers which are scattered around Bologna, our wonderful and informative guide Elena S. from
BOLOGNA:PASTA MAKING
We could not visit Bologna and not take at least one cooking class and there was no question in my mind that it would be making pasta. We found a chef named Leonardo Iacono through the daughter of a friend who spent a semester in college abroad in Bologna and in her free time, he taught her how to make pasta. Leonardo and I first communicated through WhatsApp, and he acknowledged that he did not speak much English, but that turned out not to be a problem as he was able to cle
DA VINCI'S LAST SUPPER
We understood that visiting Milan meant we had to see da Vinci's Last Supper. Securing tickets for this requires some timing and patience. Tickets are released approximately 4 weeks before your intended visit date. They can be purchased directly from the Cenacolo Vinciano museum, but getting in the queue is essential. Tickets are released at noon in Italy, which is 3AM in California where we live, so I had to wake up in the middle of the night to make the purchase. You can bu
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VENICE
IYA VALLEY
KYOTO
HIROSHIMA
KAMAKURA
NAOSHIMA
DA VINCI'S LAST SUPPER
We understood that visiting Milan meant we had to see da Vinci's Last Supper. Securing tickets for this requires some timing and patience. Tickets are released approximately 4 weeks before your intended visit date. They can be purchased directly from the Cenacolo Vinciano museum, but getting in the queue is essential. Tickets are released at noon in Italy, which is 3AM in California where we live, so I had to wake up in the middle of the night to make the purchase. You can bu
EXPLORE BY LOCATION
BOLOGNA
COMO
DOLOMITES
MILAN
PADUA
VENICE
VIENNA: ART SCENE
We took a brief morning bus tour of Vienna to reach the city from where the ship was docked, but decided to skip the scheduled tours as we had had our fill of detailed histories. Instead, we wanted to visit a couple of museums. Vienna boasts over 140 museums, and we chose to visit the Belvedere Museum, which houses many of Gustav Klimt’s paintings , and the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien, known for its old masters and various artifacts. Both museums were impressive. The Belv
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VIENNA
VIENNA: ART SCENE
We took a brief morning bus tour of Vienna to reach the city from where the ship was docked, but decided to skip the scheduled tours as we had had our fill of detailed histories. Instead, we wanted to visit a couple of museums. Vienna boasts over 140 museums, and we chose to visit the Belvedere Museum, which houses many of Gustav Klimt’s paintings , and the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien, known for its old masters and various artifacts. Both museums were impressive. The Belv
PRAGUE: CITY HIGHLIGHTS
On our first morning after arriving, I woke up early due to jet lag and decided to take a stroll around the town to witness the sunrise over the Charles Bridge , constructed in the 1300s. I was treated to a stunning view of the river, dotted with numerous bridges linking the new and old sections of the city. What I didn't fully realize during my morning walk was that all the tourists were still asleep, which allowed me to enjoy the charm of the quiet streets and the birds sin
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PRAGUE
PRAGUE: FOOD SCENE
Prague offers a variety of dining options. We enjoyed breakfast each morning at the Andaz, an ideal starting point for our stay, and its breakfast was consistently satisfying. Typically, we skipped lunch, opting instead for a cup of coffee and something nutritious like a piece of strudel to keep us going until dinner. On our first night in Prague, we indulged in our first Czech pilsner, which I paired with a tender braised leg of venison served in a wonderfully thick roasted
PRAGUE: THE CASTLE
Another highlight is walking the grounds of the palace and enjoying the various gardens leading up to it. Lots of blooming chestnut trees and white lilacs along with a variety of perennials. There has been no royalty in Czechia for hundreds of years, but the palace remains the center of their government. The dungeon had some very clever instruments of torture!!! Prague Castle was most likely founded in around 880 by Prince Bořivoj of the Premyslid Dynasty (Přemyslovci). Acco
PRAGUE: JEWISH HISTORY
Exploring the old Jewish ghetto, synagogues, and cemetery was profoundly moving and likely the most impactful tour. Census data from the 1930s indicates there were about 300,000 Jews in Czechoslovakia before WWII; today, it's estimated that currently only 2,300 Jews reside in the country. Around 86,000 Jews were killed by the Nazis, while a significant number escaped and never returned. The Jubilee Synagogue is also known as the Jerusalem Synagogue. It was built in 1906, de
SINGAPORE: CITY WALK
There are many historic sites along the Singapore River, such as The Fullerton Hotel , the Old Parliament House , Chinatown , and Little India . Another "must see" is the top of Marina Bay Sands SkyPark for a panoramic view of Singapore: we did not see any obvious crazy rich Asians. One observation is that there are no grocery stores on the streets. I believe you can learn a lot about a place by visiting its supermarkets. We discovered a network of underground malls that in
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SINGAPORE
SINGAPORE & WWII
The fall of Singapore during World War II, a significant event in the Pacific theater, occurred in February 1942 when the British forces, despite their initial confidence, surrendered after just a week of intense fighting. This rapid defeat was a shocking blow to British colonial pride and military reputation. The Japanese forces, demonstrating remarkable strategic prowess, managed to outsmart the British defenders with only a third of the manpower. They executed a well-coord
SINGAPORE: CITY WALK
There are many historic sites along the Singapore River, such as The Fullerton Hotel , the Old Parliament House , Chinatown , and Little India . Another "must see" is the top of Marina Bay Sands SkyPark for a panoramic view of Singapore: we did not see any obvious crazy rich Asians. One observation is that there are no grocery stores on the streets. I believe you can learn a lot about a place by visiting its supermarkets. We discovered a network of underground malls that in
SINGAPORE AT NIGHT
Keep in mind that your blogger is a retired surgeon and not a party animal. I had my fun while training in NYC back in the '80's. Despite being in a rigourous every other night call program, we would still find time to blow off some steam at Studio 54, which was just a few blocks south from The Roosevelt Hospital (now know as Mt Sinai West) or go out to Fire Island and hang in the Pines for the weekend. Those were the days when Warhol, Bianca, Liza held court at Studio 54 and
ISTANBUL: HAGIA SOPHIA
Hagia Sophia (532-537) was initially built as a church and remained the largest cathedral for almost 1000 years until the Seville Cathedral was completed in 1507. Following the fall of the Byzantine Empire in 1453, when the Ottomans captured Constantinople, Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque. This transformation involved removing bells and altars and concealing images of Jesus, Mary, and the saints and angels. Large wooden black discs with Arabic calligraphy were place
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ISTANBUL
ISTANBUL: GRAND BAZAAR
The Grand Bazaar and Spice Market have been commercial hubs since Ottoman times. Walking through them envelops you with exotic scents of the spices to the sights which ranged from handcrafted copper to jewels to Turkish textiles. We had a cup of tea at a cafe on the roof above the bazaar where we could look down on the undulating rooftops that Tom Cruise hopped and skipped across on his motocycle in Mission Impossible: Dead Reckoning Part One. People actually pay to take a to
ISTANBUL: INTRO
Istanbul, home to 16 million residents (compared to NYC's 8.4 million), is the most populous city in Europe, bridging the Bosporus Strait between Europe and Asia. Established as Byzantium in the 7th century BCE, it became the imperial capital under Roman Emperor Constantine the Great, initially named New Rome and later, in 330 AD, Constantinople. In 1930, the city was renamed Istanbul. Regardless of its name, the city boasts a rich history as an imperial capital, particularl
ISTANBUL: KARIYEE MOSQUE
The final significant site we toured was the Kariyee Mosque, originally constructed as a church in the 6th century. Following the conquest of Istanbul, it was converted into a mosque in 1511. The site is renowned for its frescoes and mosaics, which were created between 1310 and 1317. These Byzantine frescoes are remarkable and naturally religious, depicting scenes from the Old Testament, New Testament, and the Gospels.
HATSHEPSUT TEMPLE
Hatshepsut ( c. 1473–1458 BC), the queen who became pharaoh, built a magnificent temple at Deir al-Bahari, on the west back of Luxor. It lies directly across the Nile from Karnak Temple, the main sanctuary of the god Amun. Hatshepsut’s temple, Djeser-djeseru “the Holy of Holies” was designed by the chief steward of Amun, Senenmut. The temple consists of three levels each of which has a colonnade at its far end. On the uppermost level, an open courtyard lies just beyond the
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ASWAN
CAIRO
LUXOR
NILE
ASWAN
Aswan was our final destination on our Nile River cruise; it borders Sudan and its civil war was just beginning when we got there. It contains significant archaeological sites like the Philae temple complex, on Agilkia Island near the landmark Aswan Dam. Philae’s ruins include the columned Temple of Isis, dating to the 4th century B.C. Downriver, Elephantine Island holds the Temple of Khnum, from the Third Dynasty. Our takeaway from our brief visit to Aswan is that it is a co
GEBEL AL-SILSILA
Gebel al-Silsila is a mountainous region with sandstone quarries on both sides of the Nile. The sandstone quarries of Gebel al-Silsila have been used from the Middle Kingdom (c. 2034–1650 BC) until the 20 th century. More than a hundred quarries were exploited to extract the sandstone blocks needed to construct many of ancient Egypt’s famous temples. The quarries have preserved tool marks and workers’ inscriptions that can be seen today. The close up picture below is the qua
HATSHEPSUT TEMPLE
Hatshepsut ( c. 1473–1458 BC), the queen who became pharaoh, built a magnificent temple at Deir al-Bahari, on the west back of Luxor. It lies directly across the Nile from Karnak Temple, the main sanctuary of the god Amun. Hatshepsut’s temple, Djeser-djeseru “the Holy of Holies” was designed by the chief steward of Amun, Senenmut. The temple consists of three levels each of which has a colonnade at its far end. On the uppermost level, an open courtyard lies just beyond the
GIZA: THE GREAT PYRAMID AND SPHINX
Box checked, we visited the pyramid and sphinx, which were literally just around the corner from our accommodation at The Minna House in Giza. Having grown up watching Raiders of the Lost Ark, we had an idea of the pyramids' grandeur. However, while they were indeed very large, they didn't seem as impressive as expected, especially since we're accustomed to massive skyscrapers. Some of us even ventured inside the Great Pyramid, which was an intense leg workout due to the nee
CAIRO: COPTIC SECTION
We strolled around to visit the Coptic section of Cairo, a vibrant area rich in history and culture that reflects the deep roots of Christianity in Egypt. As we wandered through the narrow, winding streets, we were immediately captivated by the unique architecture that characterized this part of the city. And unfortunately, we were also surrounded by piles of trash and a city that is more slum than oasis. The buildings, many of which date back to the early centuries of Christ
CAIRO: OLD EGYPTIAN MUSEUM
We visited Egypt with a group of 16 friends to celebrate a milestone birthday. Our itinerary first started in Cairo and Giza, we then flew down to Luxor, took a boat down the Nile and ended in Aswan. It was an epic adventure. On our first full day in Cairo, we visited the Old Egyptian Museum , a historical landmark that has captivated visitors for generations. Although the Old Egyptian Museum is in the process of being replaced by the Grand Egyptian Museum, which promises to
HATSHEPSUT TEMPLE
Hatshepsut ( c. 1473–1458 BC), the queen who became pharaoh, built a magnificent temple at Deir al-Bahari, on the west back of Luxor. It lies directly across the Nile from Karnak Temple, the main sanctuary of the god Amun. Hatshepsut’s temple, Djeser-djeseru “the Holy of Holies” was designed by the chief steward of Amun, Senenmut. The temple consists of three levels each of which has a colonnade at its far end. On the uppermost level, an open courtyard lies just beyond the
ESNA: TEMPLE OF KHNUM
When approaching the temple, the first thing you notice is that the temple still stands on the original ground level, whereas the modern town rises 9 meters higher, on top of the remnants of the ancient town and its descendants, which have grown up around the temple over the last 2,000 years. There is no proof of the village of Esna and its temple prior to the Middle Kingdom, but from this point on, there are source materials up to the end of ancient Egyptian history. In Grae
VALLEY OF THE KINGS
The Valley of the Kings, located just outside the modern city of Luxor in Egypt, is a remarkable archaeological complex that serves as a significant tribute to the Pharaohs and their Queens of ancient Egypt. I really did not know what to expect when we toured the Valley of the Kings. I did not expect vast tunnels which are intricately decorated with elaborate hieroglyphs and stunning frescoes. These artistic representations not only highlight the grandeur of the Pharaohs but
ESNA: TEMPLE OF KHNUM
When approaching the temple, the first thing you notice is that the temple still stands on the original ground level, whereas the modern town rises 9 meters higher, on top of the remnants of the ancient town and its descendants, which have grown up around the temple over the last 2,000 years. There is no proof of the village of Esna and its temple prior to the Middle Kingdom, but from this point on, there are source materials up to the end of ancient Egyptian history. In Grae
NILE RIVER CRUISE
We spent five days on the Nile with a group of 16 friends celebrating a milestone birthday. The ship we took was on one of the Nour El Nil beautiful boats. You choose to take these boats because they are just that much more authentic. Our room and bed were comfortable, but the bathroom took a bit of getting used to because the space is multipurpose as it is your shower, toilet and sink all in a tight space, but the water was hot and that is really all we needed. The crew was
DENDERA
The Temple of Dendera is undeniably one of the most beautiful and remarkably well-preserved temples in Egypt, standing as a testament to the architectural and artistic achievements of ancient Egyptian civilization. Located in the small town of Dendera, the temple is dedicated to the goddess Hathor, who is revered as the goddess of love, beauty, music, and motherhood. The Dendera temple is very close to Luxor, which is often considered the heart of ancient Egypt due to its pro
PRAGUE: CITY HIGHLIGHTS
On our first morning after arriving, I woke up early due to jet lag and decided to take a stroll around the town to witness the sunrise over the Charles Bridge , constructed in the 1300s. I was treated to a stunning view of the river, dotted with numerous bridges linking the new and old sections of the city. What I didn't fully realize during my morning walk was that all the tourists were still asleep, which allowed me to enjoy the charm of the quiet streets and the birds sin
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PRAGUE
PRAGUE: FOOD SCENE
Prague offers a variety of dining options. We enjoyed breakfast each morning at the Andaz, an ideal starting point for our stay, and its breakfast was consistently satisfying. Typically, we skipped lunch, opting instead for a cup of coffee and something nutritious like a piece of strudel to keep us going until dinner. On our first night in Prague, we indulged in our first Czech pilsner, which I paired with a tender braised leg of venison served in a wonderfully thick roasted
PRAGUE: THE CASTLE
Another highlight is walking the grounds of the palace and enjoying the various gardens leading up to it. Lots of blooming chestnut trees and white lilacs along with a variety of perennials. There has been no royalty in Czechia for hundreds of years, but the palace remains the center of their government. The dungeon had some very clever instruments of torture!!! Prague Castle was most likely founded in around 880 by Prince Bořivoj of the Premyslid Dynasty (Přemyslovci). Acco
PRAGUE: JEWISH HISTORY
Exploring the old Jewish ghetto, synagogues, and cemetery was profoundly moving and likely the most impactful tour. Census data from the 1930s indicates there were about 300,000 Jews in Czechoslovakia before WWII; today, it's estimated that currently only 2,300 Jews reside in the country. Around 86,000 Jews were killed by the Nazis, while a significant number escaped and never returned. The Jubilee Synagogue is also known as the Jerusalem Synagogue. It was built in 1906, de
MUNICH: ART SCENE
Munich boasts numerous museums, and for us, traveling is all about art and architecture. I always relish the opportunity to see both old and new masters, especially pieces we haven't encountered before. Fortunately, Munich managed to protect its art during the war. We visited the Alte Pinakothek , which houses a vast and significant collection of old masters and contemporary art. Highlights included works by Rembrandt, van Gogh, da Vinci, Raphael, Botticelli, Lippi, El Greco,
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BERLIN
DRESDEN
PASSAU
POTSDAM
MUNICH
NUREMBERG
BERLIN: JEWISH HISTORY
We met our guide Robert, an expert on the Holocaust, who has a book set to be published by Fordham University later this year. As you can tell, the guides we hire from Context are all highly knowledgeable individuals who enriched our experience beyond merely touring the sites. Jewish Berlin has a rich history dating back to 1671, though few physical reminders remain. Remarkably, in the 1930s, Berlin, with over 4 million residents, had about 160,000 Jews, of which 55,000 were
BERLIN: FOOD SCENE
Deciding where to eat can often be more difficult than choosing which site or museum to visit. With so many options and limited time, Berlin presents a wide range of choices, requiring some discernment when making reservations. I usually book in advance for major cities if I'm worried about last-minute availability, but I also enjoy getting recommendations from the local concierge. Our first night's dinner was at a trendy, small restaurant called Barra , where we sat at the b
BERLIN: ART SCENE
Berlin is loaded with art from old masters to modern. Even the Berlin Wall is a work of art as after it was taken down, artists and just plain folk were given the opportunity to paint on a section of the wall and it became known as the East Side Gallery. The Old Master Museum is known as the Germaldeggalerie. We got our fill of old masters and what we loved about this museum, was that there were very few visitors, so it was a joy to hang with Botticelli's, Vermeer’s, Rembrand
DRESDEN: FOOD & LODGING
We stayed at the Relais Chateau Hotel Bulow , which didn't meet our expectations compared to the Andaz Prague. It was somewhat disappointing, as we've previously enjoyed other Relais Chateau hotels, but this one could use a bit of refreshing. We discovered a fantastic bakery just half a block from the hotel called Elias . The bread and pastries were excellent. Starting the day with a sourdough baguette, serrano ham, arugula, and a double shot cappuccino was perfect! Scotty, h
DRESDEN: MEISSEN FACTORY & MARITZBURG
Another day trip to consider is to the Meissen Factory to see how their porcelain is created and decorated. I now understand why they charge what they charge, because it is labor intensive, and all done by hand. Remarkably, we came away from the museum store with nothing but pictures and no tzotchkes. From there we went to Maritzburg, an old hunting palace built by none other than August II. It is known for its many mounted stag heads (no comment), a bed that was decorated by
DRESDEN: NOT SWITZERLAND SAXONY
If you desire to get out of town and see the country, this is a nice day trip. We took the train to an area they refer to as Not Switzerland Saxony where they have rock formations out of sandstone which reminded me of Sedona but surrounded by verdant forests instead of desert. When we got back into town, we visited their main concert hall, the Palace of Culture , which was built under the communists and was surprisingly beautiful in a mid-century modern way. The murals inside
DANUBE RIVER CRUISE: PASSAU
The ship sailed gracefully along the winding waters of the Danube toward Passau, our final Bavarian stop before we would journey onward to Austria. This charming city, known as the "City of Three Rivers," boasts a rich history that dates back to its founding in the year 1219. Nestled at the confluence of the Danube, Inn, and Ilz rivers, Passau is steeped in cultural heritage and stunning architecture. During our exploration of this picturesque city, we visited the magnificent
DANUBE RIVER CRUISE: PASSAU
The ship sailed gracefully along the winding waters of the Danube toward Passau, our final Bavarian stop before we would journey onward to Austria. This charming city, known as the "City of Three Rivers," boasts a rich history that dates back to its founding in the year 1219. Nestled at the confluence of the Danube, Inn, and Ilz rivers, Passau is steeped in cultural heritage and stunning architecture. During our exploration of this picturesque city, we visited the magnificent
MUNICH: ART SCENE
Munich boasts numerous museums, and for us, traveling is all about art and architecture. I always relish the opportunity to see both old and new masters, especially pieces we haven't encountered before. Fortunately, Munich managed to protect its art during the war. We visited the Alte Pinakothek , which houses a vast and significant collection of old masters and contemporary art. Highlights included works by Rembrandt, van Gogh, da Vinci, Raphael, Botticelli, Lippi, El Greco,
MUNICH: FOOD SCENE
Dinner on day #1 in Munich was at The Charles Hotel at their restaurant, Sophia’s . Scotty started with white asparagus soup and I had ravioli stuffed with asparagus; it is still asparagus season. For our mains, hubs had tagliatelle with red sauce, and I had stuffed turbot. On the second day, we had dinner at Neo-brasserie Hoiz . Scotty began with the grilled Caesar salad, while I opted for the spicy fried calamari with Asian influences. Scott ventured to try an ox steak acco
MUNICH: DACHAU
When we decided to tour Germany, my goal was to gain a deeper understanding of modern Germany and to visit a concentration camp firsthand. I wanted to hear from Germans about the post-war rebuilding years and to be assured that such events would never repeat. I left feeling confident that it wouldn't happen again in Germany, though we all recognize how unpredictable our world is and that world peace isn't imminent. Interestingly, it wasn't until the '60s that Germans began to
NUREMBERG: FOOD SCENE
Spending two days in Nuremberg provided two evenings to delve into the local cuisine. The first night's dinner was at a traditional Franconian restaurant called Albrecht Duerer Stube . The setting was as authentic as imaginable, featuring timbered walls, various knick-knacks, and waitresses dressed in dirndls. Albrecht Duerer, a painter and printmaker from the late 15 th century, hailed from Nuremberg, and his former house still stands. However, you're likely more interested
NUREMBERG: THE TRIALS
The Nuremberg Trials commenced a mere six months following the conclusion of World War II, marking a pivotal moment in history where justice sought to confront the atrocities committed during the conflict. Our visit to Court Room 600, the very venue where the major trials unfolded, was an overwhelming experience. This courtroom became the stage for the prosecution of the highest-ranking Nazi leaders, who were held accountable for their roles in orchestrating the war and the s
NUREMBERG: NAZI PROPAGANDA
Our guide Gabi took us around for us to see firsthand the sites favored by Hitler for his parades and speeches. Hitler had a particular fondness for Nuremberg, where he constructed or planned several grand structures. Our first stop was the Hall of Honors, initially built to commemorate WWI soldiers, but repurposed by Hitler as a stage for his large gatherings. Despite its name, it is not an actual hall but an outdoor pavilion bordered by posts that once held flames for the d
ISTANBUL: HAGIA SOPHIA
Hagia Sophia (532-537) was initially built as a church and remained the largest cathedral for almost 1000 years until the Seville Cathedral was completed in 1507. Following the fall of the Byzantine Empire in 1453, when the Ottomans captured Constantinople, Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque. This transformation involved removing bells and altars and concealing images of Jesus, Mary, and the saints and angels. Large wooden black discs with Arabic calligraphy were place
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ISTANBUL
ISTANBUL: GRAND BAZAAR
The Grand Bazaar and Spice Market have been commercial hubs since Ottoman times. Walking through them envelops you with exotic scents of the spices to the sights which ranged from handcrafted copper to jewels to Turkish textiles. We had a cup of tea at a cafe on the roof above the bazaar where we could look down on the undulating rooftops that Tom Cruise hopped and skipped across on his motocycle in Mission Impossible: Dead Reckoning Part One. People actually pay to take a to
ISTANBUL: INTRO
Istanbul, home to 16 million residents (compared to NYC's 8.4 million), is the most populous city in Europe, bridging the Bosporus Strait between Europe and Asia. Established as Byzantium in the 7th century BCE, it became the imperial capital under Roman Emperor Constantine the Great, initially named New Rome and later, in 330 AD, Constantinople. In 1930, the city was renamed Istanbul. Regardless of its name, the city boasts a rich history as an imperial capital, particularl
ISTANBUL: KARIYEE MOSQUE
The final significant site we toured was the Kariyee Mosque, originally constructed as a church in the 6th century. Following the conquest of Istanbul, it was converted into a mosque in 1511. The site is renowned for its frescoes and mosaics, which were created between 1310 and 1317. These Byzantine frescoes are remarkable and naturally religious, depicting scenes from the Old Testament, New Testament, and the Gospels.
SOUNION
The Temple of Poseidon is located at Cape Sounion, a prominent promontory situated at the southernmost tip of the Attic peninsula in Greece. This ancient temple, dedicated to Poseidon, the god of the sea, is perched on a cliff overlooking the Aegean Sea, providing stunning panoramic views that have captivated visitors for centuries. The site is not only significant for its architectural grandeur but also for its historical and cultural importance in ancient Greek civilizatio
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ATHENS
CORINTH
CRETE
DELPHI
SANTORINI
SOUNION
The Temple of Poseidon is located at Cape Sounion, a prominent promontory situated at the southernmost tip of the Attic peninsula in Greece. This ancient temple, dedicated to Poseidon, the god of the sea, is perched on a cliff overlooking the Aegean Sea, providing stunning panoramic views that have captivated visitors for centuries. The site is not only significant for its architectural grandeur but also for its historical and cultural importance in ancient Greek civilizatio
ACROPOLIS
The Acropolis of Athens stands as the most impressive and intact ancient Greek monumental complex still in existence today. It is located on a moderately high hill (156m) that rises within the Athens basin. The hill spans roughly 170 by 350m and is rocky and steep on all sides except the west, featuring a broad, nearly flat top. For over 3,300 years, strong fortification walls have encircled the Acropolis summit. The initial fortification wall was constructed in the 13th cent
ATHENS ANCIENT AGORA
On our first day in Athens, we did a walking tour of the old town. While the Acropolis loomed above, our focus was on the ancient agora. We climbed up Muses Hill to get a stunning overview of Athens. The expansive plateau of the ancient agora served as a gathering place for the citizens of ancient Athens to socialize and discuss contemporary issues. The term "agora" comes from the greek verb meaning "to congregate". This ancient city, with its court of law, gymnasium, temples
SOUNION
The Temple of Poseidon is located at Cape Sounion, a prominent promontory situated at the southernmost tip of the Attic peninsula in Greece. This ancient temple, dedicated to Poseidon, the god of the sea, is perched on a cliff overlooking the Aegean Sea, providing stunning panoramic views that have captivated visitors for centuries. The site is not only significant for its architectural grandeur but also for its historical and cultural importance in ancient Greek civilizatio
ACROPOLIS
The Acropolis of Athens stands as the most impressive and intact ancient Greek monumental complex still in existence today. It is located on a moderately high hill (156m) that rises within the Athens basin. The hill spans roughly 170 by 350m and is rocky and steep on all sides except the west, featuring a broad, nearly flat top. For over 3,300 years, strong fortification walls have encircled the Acropolis summit. The initial fortification wall was constructed in the 13th cent
ATHENS ANCIENT AGORA
On our first day in Athens, we did a walking tour of the old town. While the Acropolis loomed above, our focus was on the ancient agora. We climbed up Muses Hill to get a stunning overview of Athens. The expansive plateau of the ancient agora served as a gathering place for the citizens of ancient Athens to socialize and discuss contemporary issues. The term "agora" comes from the greek verb meaning "to congregate". This ancient city, with its court of law, gymnasium, temples
PHAISTOS
The Palace of Phaistos is one of the key centers of Minoan civilization in Crete, second in importance only to Knossos, and a major cultural attraction in southern Heraklion. Human settlement in Phaistos traces back to the Neolithic era, with the introduction of metal use around the middle of the 3rd millennium BC, which spurred further development. At the start of the 2nd millennium, power shifted to kings who constructed grand palatial centers. The initial palace was built
PALACE OF KNOSSOS & HERAKLION ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
Knossos was inhabited for several thousand years, beginning with a neolithic settlement sometime in the seventh millennium BC, and was abandoned after its destruction in 1375 BC which marked the end of Minoan civilization. It was located high up on a hill to give it a strategic advantage. The first palace on the low hill beside the Krairatos river was built around 1900 BC on the ruins of previous settlements. It was destroyed for the first time along with the other Protopalat
APTERA
Aptera was one of Crete's most important city-states. It is situated on a plateau 200 meters above Souda Bay, approximately 15 km from the city of Chania on the road to Rethymno. The theater played a crucial role in the public life of ancient cities. In ancient Aptera, the theatre was constructed on the southernmost side of the site, facing the White Mountains. The main components of the theatre are the koilon (auditorium), the orchestra, and the skene. It is estimated to hav
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BUDAPEST: ARCHITECTURE
We had a delightful guide named Gretta from Context Tours who introduced us to some of her favorite buildings, which included a range from classical to Art Nouveau, Bauhaus, brutalist, and uniquely beautiful structures that didn't adhere to a single style. The brutalist were most intriguing to us as we do not seem their work much here in the states. The city expanded in concentric circles, similar to Vienna, so it lacks a clear grid layout. Most buildings are no taller than 6
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BUDAPEST
BUDAPEST: FOOD SCENE
Food in Budapest was excellent, and we got in our share of chicken paprikash, dumplings, and amazing pastries. We also visited their large Food Marketplace, which is a building and not just an open market with every paprika you can imagine as well as everything else you might need to keep your pantry well stocked.
BUDAPEST: ART SCENE
We went to the Museum of Fine Arts to view their old masters and enjoy a beautiful Capra photography exhibit. I think we were spoiled by the extensive collections in Munich and Vienna, but this was still an enjoyable museum to visit. And let's not forget the old masters.
BUDAPEST: ARCHITECTURE
We had a delightful guide named Gretta from Context Tours who introduced us to some of her favorite buildings, which included a range from classical to Art Nouveau, Bauhaus, brutalist, and uniquely beautiful structures that didn't adhere to a single style. The brutalist were most intriguing to us as we do not seem their work much here in the states. The city expanded in concentric circles, similar to Vienna, so it lacks a clear grid layout. Most buildings are no taller than 6
VIENNA: ART SCENE
We took a brief morning bus tour of Vienna to reach the city from where the ship was docked, but decided to skip the scheduled tours as we had had our fill of detailed histories. Instead, we wanted to visit a couple of museums. Vienna boasts over 140 museums, and we chose to visit the Belvedere Museum, which houses many of Gustav Klimt’s paintings , and the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien, known for its old masters and various artifacts. Both museums were impressive. The Belv
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VIENNA
VIENNA: ART SCENE
We took a brief morning bus tour of Vienna to reach the city from where the ship was docked, but decided to skip the scheduled tours as we had had our fill of detailed histories. Instead, we wanted to visit a couple of museums. Vienna boasts over 140 museums, and we chose to visit the Belvedere Museum, which houses many of Gustav Klimt’s paintings , and the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien, known for its old masters and various artifacts. Both museums were impressive. The Belv
DANUBE RIVER CRUISE: MELK TO SPITZ
River cruises are wonderful because the ship departs during the night and reaches the next destination by morning. On this particular evening, we were magically transported from Grein to Melk. Upon arrival, we hiked up to the Melk Benedictine Abbey, often referred to as the “Vatican of the North”. The most impressive feature of the abbey was its library, which housed thousands of volumes and manuscripts across 12 grand Baroque and Rococo rooms, with books stretching from floo
DANUBE RIVER CRUISE: LINZ, MONDSEE & SALZBURG
The following day, we reached Linz, known for the Linzer torte, which we didn't try as we didn't stay there. Instead, we embarked on a scenic 2-hour bus ride to Salzburg, a city renowned for being the birthplace of the illustrious composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. The journey itself was quite picturesque, offering us glimpses of the beautiful Austrian countryside, with rolling hills, lush green fields, and charming villages dotting the landscape. As we approached Salzburg, th
TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM
We hired a guide to take us through the Tokyo National Museum with a goal to learn something about Japanese art. People from the West (which means me) are familiar with western art from the renaissance to impressionism and abstract expressionism, but learning about Asian art is not something one gets taught much in an arts humanities class in college. At the gallery, we had the pleasure of being guided by Rafa, the most organized and exceptional guide we've ever encountered.
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HIROSHIMA
IYA VALLEY
KAMAKURA
KYOTO
MOUNT KOYA
NANYUKI
NAOSHIMA
TOKYO
HIROSHIMA
Japan has lots of islands. We took a ferry to Honshu and then traveled by high-speed train to Hiroshima. Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial Park and the Peace Memorial Museum serve as solemn reminders of the atomic blast that devastated the city on August 6, 1945. Within the park lies the skeletal remains of a building now called the Atomic Bomb Dome , which was originally the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall built in 1914. The structure has been preserved as it was
IYA VALLEY: RITSURIN PARK
We wandered through the gardens of the 17th-century Ritsurin Park. The beauty and serenity of the numerous gardens and parks we explored is likely my top highlight from Japan. This garden features over 1,400 pine trees, most of which are pruned by the gardeners to resemble large, elegantly curved bonsai.
IYA VALLEY: ZENTSUJI TEMPLE
The Zentsuji Temple is revered as the birthplace of the Buddhist priest Kobo Daishi. Kobo Daishi founded the Shingon school of Japanese Buddhism. There are many schools of Buddhism all with a goal of reaching enlightenment. If you are wondering what are the red hats and aprons about, they are adornments intended to ward off evil and protect children.
IYA VALLEY: HOTEL HIKYONYU
In the Iya Valley, we stayed at a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn called Hotel Hikyonyu , which featured an onsen , an on-site hot spring bath. The onsen was very relaxing, but the inn itself was simple and not exactly the 4 or 5-star lodging we prefer. In lieu of marble bathrooms, we had prefab "lego-land" bathrooms. At least here, we were able to procure a couple of extra futons for more padding and the room was not cold, so we slept better. National Geographic didn't s
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MOUNT KOYA
Mount Koya is the central hub of the Shingon Buddhist sect. Buddhism consists of three primary schools: Theravada, Mahayana, and Vajrayana, each with numerous sects, subsects, and movements. The core tenets of Buddhism focus on understanding suffering, identifying its causes, and pursuing a path to liberation through mindfulness, compassion, and ethical behavior, all aimed at achieving nirvana (enlightenment). We wandered through an enchanting cemetery nestled among tower
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NAOSHIMA
A ferry transported us to the small island of Naoshima, which has become a hub for contemporary art and architecture. The Benesse Art Site was established through the collaboration of an industrialist and a mayor, aiming to highlight this small island in the Seto Inland Sea by developing a venue where contemporary art and a beachfront hotel merge, allowing guests to experience staying in a museum. On our Nat Geo trip, this hotel stood out as the best in terms of design and
TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM
We hired a guide to take us through the Tokyo National Museum with a goal to learn something about Japanese art. People from the West (which means me) are familiar with western art from the renaissance to impressionism and abstract expressionism, but learning about Asian art is not something one gets taught much in an arts humanities class in college. At the gallery, we had the pleasure of being guided by Rafa, the most organized and exceptional guide we've ever encountered.
TOKYO: AESTHETICS & ARCHITECTURE
Contemporary Japan has its own unique aesthetics and architecture; this was the focus of our last tour in Tokyo with Context. Our guide was Jay, who holds a master’s degree in urban planning from the University of Tokyo and is an ex-pat from the US. Before settling in Japan 25 years ago, Jay spent time in Syria, Russia, and the UK. The quality of the Context guides continues to impress me. We met up with Jay in the Harajuku district , famous for its cutting-edge fashion retai
TOKYO: YANESEN
In Tokyo, we chose Context to book our tours. We appreciate both ToursByLocals and Context, and our choice usually depends on what each company offers for the destination we're visiting. Additionally, I find it optimal to stick with one company per location, though there is room for flexibility. Context typically features guides with a slightly higher academic background. We spent the entire day with Angel, an aspiring PhD candidate from Spain, who is studying the impact of
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EXPLORE BY LOCATION
BRATISLAVA
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MOUNT KENYA DAY HIKES
When I was first planning my month in Kenya, I contemplated a 3 or 4 day trek up Mt Kenya until I reminded myself that I am the guy who needs the third room. Instead, we did visit the Ndare Ngare Forest and the Sirimon Route Hike, but only did part of both. Mount Kenya is Africa’s second highest mountain at 5,199m (17,058 feet) and the highest of all Kenya Mountains. On the Sirimon hike we started at around 10,000 feet and went up to 12,000 feet. I was surprised that I did n
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LAIKIPIA
LAMU
MASAI MARA
MT KENYA
NAIROBI TO ISTANBUL...not simple
I will chat briefly about leaving Africa and heading to Istanbul. Nothing is simple with going to and leaving Africa. We had to take a puddle jumper safari plane from Nanyuki to Wilson Airport in Nairobi. Wilson Airport is where we also flew out of when we went to the Ndato Offbeat Safari Camp and is where most of the smaller flights go in and out of. The airport is a series of hangers and buildings that ramble for blocks and if you could image a facility that houses homeles
MOUNT KENYA DAY HIKES
When I was first planning my month in Kenya, I contemplated a 3 or 4 day trek up Mt Kenya until I reminded myself that I am the guy who needs the third room. Instead, we did visit the Ndare Ngare Forest and the Sirimon Route Hike, but only did part of both. Mount Kenya is Africa’s second highest mountain at 5,199m (17,058 feet) and the highest of all Kenya Mountains. On the Sirimon hike we started at around 10,000 feet and went up to 12,000 feet. I was surprised that I did n
NANYUKI AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
The next destination is Nanyuki, where my friend Lauren has her home in Africa. Lauren and her husband David have been traveling to Africa for over 15 years, having experienced numerous safaris across the continent. They chose Kenya due to its relative political stability, abundant wildlife, and pleasant weather. Being situated on the equator offers the advantage of consistent 12-hour days and nights. In Nanyuki, the weather is a dependable 52-75 degrees F, with two distinct
NAIROBI TO ISTANBUL...not simple
I will chat briefly about leaving Africa and heading to Istanbul. Nothing is simple with going to and leaving Africa. We had to take a puddle jumper safari plane from Nanyuki to Wilson Airport in Nairobi. Wilson Airport is where we also flew out of when we went to the Ndato Offbeat Safari Camp and is where most of the smaller flights go in and out of. The airport is a series of hangers and buildings that ramble for blocks and if you could image a facility that houses homeles
MOUNT KENYA DAY HIKES
When I was first planning my month in Kenya, I contemplated a 3 or 4 day trek up Mt Kenya until I reminded myself that I am the guy who needs the third room. Instead, we did visit the Ndare Ngare Forest and the Sirimon Route Hike, but only did part of both. Mount Kenya is Africa’s second highest mountain at 5,199m (17,058 feet) and the highest of all Kenya Mountains. On the Sirimon hike we started at around 10,000 feet and went up to 12,000 feet. I was surprised that I did n
NANYUKI AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
The next destination is Nanyuki, where my friend Lauren has her home in Africa. Lauren and her husband David have been traveling to Africa for over 15 years, having experienced numerous safaris across the continent. They chose Kenya due to its relative political stability, abundant wildlife, and pleasant weather. Being situated on the equator offers the advantage of consistent 12-hour days and nights. In Nanyuki, the weather is a dependable 52-75 degrees F, with two distinct
NAIROBI TO ISTANBUL...not simple
I will chat briefly about leaving Africa and heading to Istanbul. Nothing is simple with going to and leaving Africa. We had to take a puddle jumper safari plane from Nanyuki to Wilson Airport in Nairobi. Wilson Airport is where we also flew out of when we went to the Ndato Offbeat Safari Camp and is where most of the smaller flights go in and out of. The airport is a series of hangers and buildings that ramble for blocks and if you could image a facility that houses homeles
MOUNT KENYA DAY HIKES
When I was first planning my month in Kenya, I contemplated a 3 or 4 day trek up Mt Kenya until I reminded myself that I am the guy who needs the third room. Instead, we did visit the Ndare Ngare Forest and the Sirimon Route Hike, but only did part of both. Mount Kenya is Africa’s second highest mountain at 5,199m (17,058 feet) and the highest of all Kenya Mountains. On the Sirimon hike we started at around 10,000 feet and went up to 12,000 feet. I was surprised that I did n
NANYUKI AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
The next destination is Nanyuki, where my friend Lauren has her home in Africa. Lauren and her husband David have been traveling to Africa for over 15 years, having experienced numerous safaris across the continent. They chose Kenya due to its relative political stability, abundant wildlife, and pleasant weather. Being situated on the equator offers the advantage of consistent 12-hour days and nights. In Nanyuki, the weather is a dependable 52-75 degrees F, with two distinct
NAIROBI TO ISTANBUL...not simple
I will chat briefly about leaving Africa and heading to Istanbul. Nothing is simple with going to and leaving Africa. We had to take a puddle jumper safari plane from Nanyuki to Wilson Airport in Nairobi. Wilson Airport is where we also flew out of when we went to the Ndato Offbeat Safari Camp and is where most of the smaller flights go in and out of. The airport is a series of hangers and buildings that ramble for blocks and if you could image a facility that houses homeles
MOUNT KENYA DAY HIKES
When I was first planning my month in Kenya, I contemplated a 3 or 4 day trek up Mt Kenya until I reminded myself that I am the guy who needs the third room. Instead, we did visit the Ndare Ngare Forest and the Sirimon Route Hike, but only did part of both. Mount Kenya is Africa’s second highest mountain at 5,199m (17,058 feet) and the highest of all Kenya Mountains. On the Sirimon hike we started at around 10,000 feet and went up to 12,000 feet. I was surprised that I did n
NANYUKI AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
The next destination is Nanyuki, where my friend Lauren has her home in Africa. Lauren and her husband David have been traveling to Africa for over 15 years, having experienced numerous safaris across the continent. They chose Kenya due to its relative political stability, abundant wildlife, and pleasant weather. Being situated on the equator offers the advantage of consistent 12-hour days and nights. In Nanyuki, the weather is a dependable 52-75 degrees F, with two distinct
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