BOLOGNA: WALKING TOUR

After leaving the Teatro Anatomico, we found ourselves standing before one of the iconic medieval towers that dot the skyline of this historic city. Bologna, known for its rich cultural heritage and architectural marvels, boasts numerous towers that were built during the Middle Ages, serving various purposes from defense to demonstrating wealth and power.

As we gazed up at one of the towers which are scattered around Bologna, our wonderful and informative guide Elena S. from ToursByLocals shared an intriguing tidbit about the little square holes that are visible in many of these ancient buildings. Initially, I had assumed that these openings were designed for ventilation, perhaps to allow for air circulation within the dense stone walls. However, Elena clarified that this was not their purpose at all. Instead, these square holes were ingeniously designed to accommodate scaffolding during the construction of the towers. When these impressive structures were being built, workers would insert wooden posts into these holes, which would then support the planks necessary for constructing the next level of the tower. This method allowed builders to reach great heights, enabling them to create the towering edifices that have become synonymous with Bologna’s medieval landscape.

The use of scaffolding in this manner reflects the engineering ingenuity of the time, showcasing how builders adapted their techniques to meet the challenges of constructing such monumental buildings. As we continued to admire the tower, I couldn't help but reflect on the labor and skill that went into its creation. The towers, many of which still stand today, are not just architectural feats; they are also historical markers that tell the story of Bologna's past, its social structure, and the importance of power dynamics during the medieval period. Not so different to today when you think about the towers that dot the cityscape of billionaires row in Manhattan.

Since this was a walking tour, we continued and stopped briefly for a photo opportunity in front of the Chamber of Commerce doors. The doors to the old palazzos are enormous. There are small pedestrian doors built into these large portals, which require caution when passing through as they are not very tall; my Scotty hit his head hard when we entered our Airbnb because he was looking down instead of up. As we wandered further, the streets continually amazed us with their layers of history and architectural quirks—every archway, balcony, and stone column reflects a history that we don't have in the States. The grandeur of these centuries-old buildings, combined with the vibrant energy of modern life, made each walk a unique experience.

Just loved all the huge doors on the old palazzos.

Next up on our walkabout was the Basilica di San Petronio. This remarkable structure stands as a testament to the rich history and architectural prowess of Bologna. During our exploration, we delved into the distinctions between various types of religious buildings, specifically churches, duomos, and basilicas. Churches are simply that—places of worship that serve the local congregation, offering a space for prayer, reflection, and community gatherings. They can vary significantly in size and style, but their primary function remains consistent across different cultures and denominations. On the other hand, a duomo refers specifically to the principal cathedral of a city, often serving as a central hub for religious activities and ceremonies. It is typically the most prominent church in the area, often characterized by its grand architecture and significant historical importance. A basilica is typically overseen by a bishop, who plays a critical role in its administration and spiritual leadership.

The Basilica di San Petronio, in particular, is notable for its vast size and intricate design, showcasing elements of Gothic architecture that reflect the artistic movements of its time. In addition to its architectural grandeur, the basilica holds a wealth of historical significance, serving as a cultural landmark for the city of Bologna.

This basilica had frescoes dating back to 15th century. The messaging is always the same: you get a choice between going to heaven or hell.  The representations of hell are dark, chaotic, and filled with torment, serving as a sobering reminder of the consequences of sin and moral failing. These artworks were not merely decorative; they were intended to educate and inspire the congregation, urging them to reflect on their choices and the impact of their actions.

Below is the sundial that transmits sunshine at noon along a line in the floor with the location dependent on the time in the year.

Next religious complex we visited was the Basilica di Santo Stefano which encompasses several religious edifices on Piazza Santo Stefano. It is mind boggling to me to think of all these churches; promoting god and religion is a big business.

At the Basilica di Santo Stefano, I have listed the different parts of the complex for you to see the time period it was built over and they include:

• Church of Saint Stephen or of the Holy Crucifix (8th century, presbytery reshaped in 17th century), with the Crypt

• Church of the Holy Sepulchre (5th century)

• Church of the Saints Vitale and Agricola (4th century, rebuilt first in the 12th century)

• Courtyard of Pilate ("Santo Giardino", 13th century)

• Church of the Trinity or of the Martyrium (13th century)

• Chapel of the Bandage

Walking through the complex there is a variety of architectural styles, mostly Romanesque, reflecting the many centuries the churches were constructed. The courtyards give one a sense of what life was like for the monks who would have lived there and paced in reflection of their life goals to serve God and the people.

The monks who lived and worked in the monastery would stroll the second floor porticos.  This design with central courtyards is found throughout Italy because it was also used to create pallazios for the unmarried women of noble birth who needed a suitable place to reside and so convents were built, often one right next door to another to accommodate them. When we were in Milan, we visited some of these former palazzios which are now used as the ateliers for many fashion designers.

To talk about Bologna, I would be remiss to not mention all about covered porticos and columns everywhere. UNESCO noted there are over 40 miles of these walkways; I do not think anyone has tried to count the number of pillars. These beautiful walkways provide shade or protection to stroll under on sunny or rainy days.

To sum up, we thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Bologna, a city that captivated us with its incredible food, stunning architecture, and vibrant culture, which is particularly youthful due to the presence of its large and prestigious university. The culinary scene in Bologna is nothing short of remarkable; it is often referred to as the gastronomic capital of Italy. We indulged in traditional dishes such as tagliatelle al ragù, tortellini in brodo, and the delightful mortadella, each bite offering a rich taste of the region's culinary heritage.

Moreover, the architecture of Bologna is a feast for the eyes, with its medieval towers, the beautiful porticoes that stretch for miles, providing both shelter and a unique aesthetic charm. The city’s historical center is a blend of vibrant colors and intricate designs, where every corner reveals a new masterpiece, from the grand Piazza Maggiore to the serene beauty of the Basilica di San Petronio.

Bologna's culture is equally dynamic, infused with a youthful energy that stems from its large student population. This creates a lively atmosphere, filled with art, music, and festivals that celebrate both contemporary and traditional Italian life. The streets are alive with the sounds of laughter, conversation, and the occasional street performer, making it a delightful place to wander and explore.

Another aspect that we appreciated was how walkable the city is. Unlike other tourist-heavy destinations, Bologna offers a bustling yet manageable experience. The streets are lined with shops, cafes, and local markets, inviting visitors to take their time and immerse themselves in the local lifestyle. While the city is vibrant and full of life, it maintains a sense of balance, ensuring that it is not overrun like Venice, where crowds can often detract from the experience.

There is so much more to explore and experience, from its hidden gems to the seasonal festivals that showcase the best of Bolognese culture. Our time there left us with cherished memories and a desire to return to this enchanting city some time in the future.