LAMU

I knew immediately after landing in Lamu and saw that our taxi was a dhow (traditional sailboat with a motor) to take us to our hotel, that this was going to be a magical place to hang for a few days.

Lamu Island is a port, city, and island just off the shore of Kenya in the Indian Ocean approximately 150 miles from Mombasa. Lamu was founded in the 12th century. 

Lamu Old Town is a World Heritage Unesco site and is the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa, retaining its traditional functions.  The Swahili is not just a language but a culture that is a mixture of European, African, Arab and Asian traditions and cultures. Lamu was visited by many sailors and travelers in the early years of this island's settlement which contributed to its diversity. We observed more of the Arabic/Muslim world in Lamu Town where most of the women wore their hajibs and men were also in traditional garb, either caftans or kangas. The island had a different vibe than what we experienced in Nairobi or the Masai Mara.

The buildings are constructed using coral stone and mangrove timber; the coral stone is beautiful in its variety with some looking like fossils of some prehistoric sea life and others like a petrified beehive.  The town is characterized by the simplicity of structural forms enriched by such features as inner courtyards, verandas, and elaborately carved wooden doors. Lamu has become a significant center for the study of Islamic and Swahili cultures. The roads are narrow and private cars are not permitted, so either you take a dhow (boat) from one part of the island to another area, or you walk. Donkeys are the main means of transporting everything else bulky or heavy.

We stayed at The Peponi Hotel where apparently many celebs have visited including the Obamas. Since it opened more than 50 years ago, Peponi, which means both “place in the wind” and “paradise” in Swahili, has been the place to stay. Peponi is known for the best food, the liveliest scene, the classiest rooms, and the perfect location just outside the village of Shela, on a curve of Shela Beach that perfectly captures the breeze.

Carol Korschen, whose family owns Peponi, is not only manager but chief executive organizer. She has her opinions, including the exact hour at which one should walk into Lamu Town and to what to eat with your prawn curry. She has lived on Lamu for most of her adult life and has catered to thousands of high-maintenance guests, so her reputation is that she’s usually right. Upon arrival, her staff presented a proposed itinerary, which we happily followed.

Scott would tell you that I might be classified as one of those high-maintenance guests because when we travel, usually the first room is not going to work for me, and sometimes, not even the second; we would joke with reception to just give us the third room. In this case at Peponi, our first room was perfect with a balcony right on the water that had suspended from beams above a swinging daybed which was even better than a hammock, my past preferred place to nap.  My only issue with the room was the mattress was much firmer than what I prefer as a side sleeper. Carol came by the next morning while we were at breakfast to see how our first day was and when I mentioned the hard mattress, she had it replaced with a softer one for that evening. Essentially, the third room was delivered to me

After the 4 days of getting jostled in the back of a Land Cruiser in Masai Mara, I was ready for the gentle sway of the daybed which the tradewinds provided.  While we did some sightseeing in Lamu Town and Shela, the highlight for me were the walks on the beach, runs on the beach, and sunrises and sunsets seen from the beach or our balcony. To break up the tedium of this perfect setting, on our second evening, we took in the sunset from a sailboat around the islands. In addition, the temperature range has been 72 to 80 degrees, which rivals the sunny and 75 degrees I have become used to in San Diego.

The food has been a cross between Indian, Thai, with simple well-prepared fish, or if desperate for meat, smash burgers and chips. We are not starving and thankfully, my hiking pants, gym shorts and swimsuit, all has elastic waist bands… but I think I am maintaining and not gaining. I find it difficult to gauge the ins and outs of calories when travelling because the usual workouts have been replaced with 15000+ step days, but is that really enough to balance 3 feedings a day?

Lamu is a beautiful restorative place to spend a few days or a lifetime, like our hotelier. Next back to Nairobi and then on to Nanyuki, where Lauren has a house.